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Rogered Rover - Part 10 - April 2006

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My cousin & his son popped round to borrow some tools, so I got them to help me to lift the 110 tub on to the chassis.

I bolted the rear end to the cross member & then used a bit of string to check alignment along the side of the body – basically it didn’t!

With the string touching the wings at the front & the tub at the rear, there was a big gap under it in the middle. Also, the door apertures were about 10mm wider at the bottom. ( when I say door apertures, bear in mind I have still to shorten the rear tub by about 7 inches, so it’s the current gap that is not square)

I have subsequently come to the conclusion that the original series was bent – probably dropped by the military from a helicopter.

Removing the wings & putting the string along the tub & bulkhead showed them to be in line, so having previously decided that I had bolted the bulkhead in place for the last time, I found myself removing the bolts in order to grind about 3mm off of the mounting tubes to get the door apertures square.

Moral – even if you are buying a vehicle to use as a donor, check it’s straight.

The other thing that had come to light, was that although there is only 1inch difference in the wheelbase of a series & a 110, the wheel arch is 3 inches further back! The rear overhang on a 110 is shorter.

This means I will have to extend the wheel arch forward to clear the tyre.

Custom wheel arches could be on the cards then.

As there is not enough room in the garage to move the tub back to get the front of it in the correct position, the tub was removed & replaced with the front of the series tub in order to allow me to position the seat box & fabricate some mountings for the front of it.

I fitted the sill panels, & found that there is now so little clearance between the bulkhead ‘A’ post & the outrigger that I can’t get in to fit both nuts, so I will have to make a tapped plate out of a piece of 6mm steel plate.

Having fitted the sill panels with the one nut I could fit, I bolted the seat box down & made a cardboard template for the mounting bracket.

I then made some brackets out of a piece of 80 X 50mm box & tacked welded them to the chassis.

I then dragged ‘her indoors’ outdoors to dance on the clutch & brake pedals while I twiddled the bleeding nipples.

The clutch & brakes are now operational.

brum brum

Next job was to fit the springs & dampers followed by the wheels.

I was now able to remove the 3 barrels & for the first time in sixteen months it was back on to its wheels.

I then fitted the overdrive lever to find that it comes up thro the middle of the centre seat! I will have to see what they do on a Stage 1.

tickling stick

I then took the petrol tank outside to clean up & found 2 holes, so off to ECCV to order a new one.

Now I turned my attention to the wiring.

I had decided to use the RR chassis & engine looms & the 90-bulkhead loom.

I plugged in all the connectors to the various column switches first.

I then spent some time pouring thro’ the 90 manual, & identified & labelled the connectors under the bonnet.

I then plugged the RR bulkhead into the other RR looms.

The battery was then crudely positioned under the seat bow on a milk crate & connected to the starter motor & chassis, although it is knackered, by connecting a battery charger to it I was able to power circuits up as required.

Initially, I intended to connect the circuits with chocolate block, leaving plenty of spare wire, & then reconnect properly when I fit the front bodywork.

I systematically cut off the appropriate wire on the RR harness & reconnected it to the 90.

spaghetti junction

I encountered a few problems with warning lights, as some which have power switched to operate them on the RR, are grounded to make them work on the 90.

Eventually, I had 95% of things working, one or two things, like petrol pump will be sorted when I decide where to fit it.

There are still some redundant wires on the 90 bulkhead (glow plugs etc.) that I shall remove.

During this time the new petrol tank had arrived & been fitted.

Having got the wiring basically sorted, I then turned my attention to the radiator.

I cut approximately 10mm from the front of the radiator flanges to get it to sit closer to the front panel.

With a new piece of angle on one side & the remnants of a flange on the other, I was able to create new mountings.

I then fitted the rad panel to the chassis & fitted, or tried to, the wings.

Having altered the angle of the bulkhead, the angle that I had fitted to the chassis to take the rad panel, was now at the wrong height – by about 20mm!!

There was nothing for it, angle grinder, remove angle.

I decide that as the bonnet was going to sit about 10mm higher, the rad panel should do as well, as this supports the front of the bonnet.

So I extended the slots in the rad panel by 12mm (2mm for adjustment).

I then refitted the wings, bolted the rad panel in the appropriate place, & tacked it in position.

The wings & front panel were then removed again, & I decided that the chassis & angle were thick enough for me to weld them on with my stick welder.

The end result is not very pretty, but I don’t think it will fall off.

Then, put every thing back together again.

Running a piece of string along the top of the wings, lines up with the rear bulkhead, so I think the body alignment is finally O.K.

I now offered up the mudshields, to find that they foul the brake servo & heater!

I’ll leave this for now, but I think I will make up two new mudshields out of a sheet of stainless that I have to get over this problem.

The first day of spring is nearly upon us, so that means I am now about six months behind my original schedule!

Hopefully, one day, the light at the end of the tunnel will start to get bigger.


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